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Kitagawa Utamaro “One Day in the Yoshiwara : Hours of the Hare (around 6:00)” (1st tern)

LIGHT: CULTURE

Some Ukiyo-e prints depict the women in Yoshiwara in beautiful clothing and glamorous rooms but these are not photographs and these depictions are often catered from male perspectives catered for the male gaze. These paintings are glamorized and idealized portrayals of Yoshiwara and the day to day realities for the prostitutes could not have been this way.

The wardrobe and makeup

The luxurious wardrobe in Yoshiwara was often a burden for these prostitutes as the debt to the brothels would increase as one's rank got higher. Luxurious wardrobe she was required to wear which could include four or five layers of Kimono at once would become a financial burden for these women. Additionally, the daily quotas that women in Yoshiwara had to pay would be punished if not paid even when they were sick or in their periods. 

 

The makeup of the prostitutes in Yoshiwara was a lengthy process which began with the girl studying her face in the mirror. Camellia oil would be added to her face following a pink masque to cover her face. The use of red for the cheeks, lips, and eye area was common. 

 

“The upper garment consisted of white nanako dyed with purple clouds among which peeped out some tasteful pattern. Here and there were flowers embroidered in silk and finished by hand painting representing in vivid colors the four seasons, while the crest consisted of a wisteria flower sewn upon the dress with purple silk thread. The underwear consisted of a figured satin garment bordered with plain brown Hachijo silk and embroidered with the same pattern in colored silk, and of a lower girdle of claret-colored figured satin lined with bright scarlet silk crepe. As an instance of the beauty and costliness of the night-gown of a certain young miss, the Keiseikai Shi-juhat-te (“Forty-eight methods of buying courtesans”) mentions that “the garment was of scarlet crepe trimmed with purple figured satin and edged with gold and silver threads so as to give the effect of waves breaking upon the seashore, while her night-sash was of kabe-choro (wrinkled silk). The pattern of the shikake or cloak generally represented a cloud with lightning and a golden dragon, or rocks with peonies and a tiger chasing a butterfly; the embroidery being silver and gold.” (Longstreet, Stephen, et al. Geishas and the Floating World) 

Kitagawa Utamaro “Seven Beauties in the Yoshiwara : Courtesan Tagasode of the Daimonji-ya House”
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Three main types of hairstyles 

 

兵庫髷Hyogo mage: There was a brothel named Hyogoya, and this Yujo from there created this hairstyle 

島田髷Shimada Mage: Originated from a brothel named Shimadaya in Tokaido 

勝山髷Katsuyama mage: Originated from a Yujo named Katsuyama in Yoshiwara 

 

From these three it evolved and branched out to many hairstyles 

 

Ume, Sakura, Tsubaki, and peonies were commonly found decorative parts in kanzashi. Trees and leaves were trending in the latter period of Edo. 

Hairstyles 

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浮世絵に見る江戸吉原、佐藤/要人、藤原/千恵子、ふくろうの本、2007
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Art

Pleasure quarters and entertainment during the Edo period had a huge impact on the culture and art during that time. Ukiyo-e and woodblock prints were popularized and the glorification of the “floating world” was popularized. Most popular subjects during the early seventeenth century were said to be pleasure quarters, especially that of Yoshiwara.

 

The portrayal of courtesans and entertainers from Yoshiwara used as subjects of portraits and focus of these prints. 

Utagawa Hiroshige (1797-1858)​, a Japanese Ukiyo-e artist most known for his landscape series One Hundred Famous Views of Edo has several Ukiyo-e depicting daily scenes of Yoshiwara. Moreover, Katsushika Hokusai (1760-1849) popularized ukiyo-e and created a new concept and technology to create these prints in mass. 

“The artists of the Yoshiwara, catering to the public of the courtesans and geishas, often made prints of famous doomed couples, showing them leaping from a bridge in each other’s arms into the water, or in a love pact falling into Fuji’s crater.”(Geishas From The Floating World).

Utagawa Hiroshige, Edo ziman sanjurokukyo, Shin Yoshiwara Nakanomachi no sakura, Hiranoya 

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Utagawa Hiroshige, Edo ziman sanjurokukyo, Shin Yoshiwara Nakanomachi no sakura, Hiranoya 
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Utagawa Hiroshige, Aito, Tato sanjurokkei, Yoshiwara Nakanomachi, National Diet Library Japan 
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Utagawa Hiroshige, Asakusa tambo torinomachi mode, 1857, National Diet Library Japan

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